RAW vs JPEG: Which Photography Format Is Right for You?
Understand Color Depth, Dynamic Range, Storage, and Editing Power
RAW captures 68 billion more colors than JPEG. But it also requires 5-10x more storage. Learn which format matches your photography style, workflow, and storage capacity.
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Quick Answer: Which Format Should You Shoot?
📱 Casual Photographers
Shoot JPEG. Smaller files, instant sharing, minimal editing. One 64GB card handles thousands of photos.
🎯 Serious Enthusiasts
Shoot RAW. Maximum editing flexibility for landscapes, portraits, and difficult lighting. Plan for 256GB+ storage.
đź‘” Professionals
Shoot RAW+JPEG. JPEGs for client previews, RAW for detailed editing. Requires fast V60+ cards and external backup.
What Are RAW and JPEG Formats?
When you press the shutter button, your camera's sensor captures raw light data. Your camera then has a choice: save this raw, unprocessed data (RAW format) or process it with built-in algorithms and compress it (JPEG format).
Think of it like cooking. JPEG is like buying a pre-made meal—convenient, ready-to-eat, but you can't change the recipe. RAW is like buying raw ingredients—more work, but complete creative control over the final dish.
Each format has distinct advantages. The right choice depends on your photography style, how much you edit, and available storage space.
Format Comparison at a Glance
| Characteristic | JPEG | RAW |
|---|---|---|
| File Size (20MP) | 5-8 MB | 30-50 MB |
| Color Depth | 256 levels per channel | 4,096-16,384 levels (12-14 bit) |
| Brightness Levels | 256 shades | 4,096-16,384 shades |
| Total Colors | 16.7 million | 68 billion+ (12-bit) |
| Editing Flexibility | Minimal/Destructive | Extensive/Non-destructive |
| 1000 Photos Storage | 5-8 GB | 30-50 GB |
| Ready to Share | âś“ Immediate | âś— Requires processing |
J JPEG: The Processed, Compressed Format
How JPEG Works
When you shoot JPEG, your camera applies processing algorithms in real-time: white balance correction, color saturation boost, contrast adjustment, and sharpening. It then compresses the image, discarding data it deems unnecessary. The result: a ready-to-view image ready for immediate sharing or printing.[1]
Color & Tonal Range
JPEG captures 256 brightness levels per color channel, totaling approximately 16.7 million colors.[2] While this sounds like a lot, it's significantly limited compared to RAW. Fine gradations in color (like the subtle tones in a sunset) can appear posterized or banded in JPEG.
File Size & Storage Impact
A 20MP JPEG is typically 5-8 MB. Recording 1000 photos = approximately 5-8 GB of storage. With a 128GB card, you can store ~15,000-25,000 JPEG images. This makes JPEG ideal for photographers with storage limitations.[1]
Editing Flexibility
Limited. Once your camera has applied sharpening, contrast, and other adjustments and saved to JPEG, you've permanently lost the original raw data. Major edits (like correcting white balance or recovering blown highlights) will cause visible degradation, pixelation, and quality loss.[1][3]
When to Shoot JPEG
- Fast-paced environments (sports, events, wildlife) where quick burst shots matter more than editing
- Travel photography where storage is limited
- Casual photography with minimal post-processing
- Immediate sharing to social media or email
- Photographers using older equipment with slower write speeds
Verdict: JPEG is the practical choice for speed and convenience, but sacrifices editing flexibility and color depth.
SD Card Needed: A U1 or Class 10 card is sufficient for JPEG burst shooting.
R RAW: The Unprocessed, Maximum Data Format
How RAW Works
RAW format captures all sensor data without in-camera processing. No white balance, no sharpening, no compression—just pure sensor information. You process it later using software like Lightroom, Capture One, or Adobe Camera Raw.[1]
Color & Tonal Range: 68 Billion More Colors
RAW files capture dramatically more tonal and color information than JPEG:
- 12-bit RAW: 4,096 brightness levels per channel = 68 billion colors
- 14-bit RAW: 16,384 brightness levels per channel = trillions of possible colors
- vs JPEG: Only 256 brightness levels per channel = 16.7 million colors
This means RAW captures vastly smoother color gradations, more recoverable shadow detail, and superior dynamic range.[2]
File Size & Storage Impact
A 20MP RAW file is typically 30-50 MB. Recording 1000 photos = approximately 30-50 GB. A 128GB card holds only ~2,500-4,200 RAW images. Most RAW shooters use multiple high-capacity cards and archive to external SSDs or NAS systems after shoots.[1]
Editing Flexibility & Dynamic Range Recovery
Extensive. RAW files are remarkably forgiving. With all that tonal data, you can:
- Recover overexposed highlights (1-2 stops of clipped highlights often recoverable)
- Lift dark shadows without creating noise or banding
- Adjust white balance non-destructively
- Correct exposure by ±2 stops with minimal quality loss
- Apply non-destructive edits in editing software[4]
When to Shoot RAW
- Professional photography (portraits, studio, commercial)
- Landscape photography with challenging lighting (bright sky, dark foreground)
- Any situation where post-processing and editing will occur
- Archival work where you want to preserve all captured data
- High-value shoots where no mistakes are acceptable
- Fine art and exhibition-quality photography
Verdict: RAW is the choice for photographers who take editing seriously and have adequate storage capacity.
SD Card Needed: U3 or V30 minimum for continuous RAW recording without buffer issues. Fast cards (UHS-II) recommended.
+ RAW + JPEG: The Hybrid Approach (Simultaneous Recording)
The Best of Both Worlds?
Many professional cameras can record RAW and JPEG files simultaneously. Each shutter press captures two files: a fully processed, ready-to-share JPEG and an unprocessed RAW file for later editing.[1]
File Size & Storage Impact
Combined: 35-58 MB per photo (5-8 MB JPEG + 30-50 MB RAW). 1000 photos = 35-58 GB storage. A 128GB card holds only ~2,200-3,600 images in RAW+JPEG mode. You'll need multiple high-capacity cards and daily offloading to external storage.[1]
Best Use Cases
- Wedding photography: JPEGs for instant client previews, RAW for detailed editing and retouching
- Commercial studio: Client approval using JPEGs, professional retouching from RAW
- High-value events: Insurance against editing mistakes—RAW files as backup
- Hybrid workflows: Quick social media posts from JPEG, archival RAW for future re-processing
Verdict: RAW+JPEG is for professionals who can afford the storage and have the workflow to handle both file types.
SD Card Required: V60 or V90 to handle the combined write bandwidth. 256GB+ cards recommended. Multiple cards essential per shoot.
Dynamic Range: Why RAW Excels in Difficult Lighting
Dynamic range is the difference between the brightest and darkest parts of an image. RAW files capture far more dynamic range than JPEG, making them invaluable in high-contrast situations.
Overexposed Scenario: Bright Sky, Dark Foreground
Imagine a landscape with a bright blue sky and dark trees.
JPEG Result: Either the sky is properly exposed (trees become black silhouettes) or the trees are visible (sky becomes blown-out white). The camera can't capture both.[2][4]
RAW Result: The RAW file captures all the detail in both the bright sky and dark foreground. You can recover highlights and lift shadows in post-processing to create a well-balanced image.[4]
Underexposed Scenario: Indoor Lighting
Shooting in dim indoor lighting, you underexpose to preserve skin tones.
JPEG Result: Limited shadow detail. Raising exposure in Lightroom creates noise and banding—the image quickly degrades.[4]
RAW Result: RAW can be brightened by +2 to +2.5 stops while retaining smooth tones and minimal noise due to the thousands of shadow levels captured.[4]
The Numbers: JPEG vs RAW Dynamic Range
JPEG: 256 brightness levels = limited tonal range, visible banding when edited heavily
12-bit RAW: 4,096 brightness levels = smooth gradations, extensive editability
14-bit RAW: 16,384 brightness levels = nearly unlimited tonal flexibility
Calculate Your Storage Needs
Now that you've chosen RAW, JPEG, or dual format, use our free storage calculator to determine exactly how many photos you can store on any SD card.
Calculate Your Storage Capacity (Free) →Best Practices for RAW and JPEG Shooting
Before You Shoot
- âś“ Check your camera's buffer size for burst shooting
- âś“ Know your card's write speed (V30, V60, etc.)
- âś“ Verify your card can handle RAW or RAW+JPEG if needed
- âś“ Have spare cards for long shoots or travel
- âś“ Calculate storage capacity using our tool
Workflow & Storage
- âś“ Back up RAW files immediately after every shoot
- âś“ Use external SSDs for RAW file archiving
- âś“ Keep multiple copies (3-2-1 rule: 3 copies, 2 types of media, 1 offsite)
- âś“ Format cards in-camera between shoots
- âś“ Label and organize by date and location
Processing RAW Files
- âś“ Use software that supports your camera's RAW format
- ✓ Non-destructive editing—don't delete originals
- âś“ Export JPEG for sharing; keep RAW as master
- âś“ Apply consistent settings using presets
- âś“ Batch process similar images for efficiency
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- âś— Using slow cards (Class 4-6) for RAW burst shooting
- âś— Only shooting RAW+JPEG without adequate backup
- âś— Deleting RAW after processing (you may want to re-edit later)
- âś— Shooting RAW but never processing/editing files
- âś— Underestimating storage needs for long events
Frequently Asked Questions
Is RAW always better than JPEG?
No. RAW is better for editing-intensive work, but JPEG has clear advantages:
- JPEG wins: Speed, storage efficiency, instant sharing, fast burst shooting
- RAW wins: Editing flexibility, color depth (68 billion vs 16.7 million colors), dynamic range recovery
Choose RAW if you edit your photos. Choose JPEG if you prefer convenience and limited editing.
How much storage do RAW files really require?
File size varies by camera model and resolution:
- 20MP RAW: ~30-50 MB per file
- 24MP RAW: ~35-60 MB per file
- 45MP RAW: ~80-120 MB per file
A 128GB card holds: 2,560-4,200 images in RAW; 15,000-25,000 in JPEG. Most RAW shooters use 256GB cards and external SSD backup.
Can I convert JPEG to RAW?
No. Once your camera saves to JPEG, the raw sensor data is discarded permanently. You cannot recover it. This is why professionals always shoot RAW if they know they'll edit heavily.
Important: Always shoot RAW if there's any chance you'll want to edit later. Don't rely on JPEG-to-RAW conversion tools; they don't actually recover lost data.
Will RAW files slow down my camera's burst shooting?
Yes, but only if your card and camera combination can't handle the write speed. RAW produces larger files than JPEG, so:
- Your camera's buffer fills faster
- Burst shooting speed drops if your card is too slow
Solution: Use V60 or faster cards for RAW burst shooting. Check your camera manual for recommended card specifications.
Should I shoot RAW+JPEG?
RAW+JPEG is ideal if:
- You need to deliver JPEGs quickly to clients
- You want detailed RAW editing as backup
- You have adequate storage (camera buffer must handle both)
- Your card is V60+ to handle the write bandwidth
Skip RAW+JPEG if: Storage is limited, you only need one format, or you prefer simplicity.
Professional-Grade Cards
This website contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission when you purchase through our links at no extra cost to you.
SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II Memory Card - Up to 300MB/s Read and Write speeds, V90, 8K, 4K UHD, SD Card - SDSDXDM-128G-GN4IN
Lexar 128GB Professional SILVER PRO SD Card, UHS-II, C10, U3, V60, Full HD, 4K, Up To 280MB/s Read SDXC Memory Card, for Professional Photographer, Videographer, Enthusiast (LSDSIPR128G-BNNNU)
SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II Memory Card - C10, U3, V60, 6K, 4K UHD, SD Card - SDSDXEP-128G-GN4IN
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